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Guillermo Vazquez Consuegra

Arti e Architettura
1 Settembre 2004
Tall Buildings
1 Settembre 2004
 

Galata Museo del Mare

 

In una operosa atmosfera stile "Vernissage" -con tecnici e allestitori ancora freneticamente al lavoro - il 31 luglio dell'anno di Genova 2004 Capitale Europea della Cultura, è stato svelato il nuovo volto del "Galata", ridisegnato dall'architetto spagnolo Culliamo Vazquez Consuegra. Il Galata, un'antica costruzione della fine del XVI secolo situata nella Darsena - originariamente sede dell'Arsenale in cui nel seicento la Repubblica di Genova realizzava e varava la propria flotta -, ritorna cosi ad essere uno dei simboli della città, divenendo il "contenitore" di una delle maggiori strutture in Europa dedicate al mare e alla storia della navigazione. Tra le principali caratteristiche architettoniche dello storico edificio (è il più antico sopravvissuto tra quelli che componevano la Darsena), segnaliamo l'originale sistema costruttivo ad arconi sovrapposti, direttamente a contatto con il mare, che consentiva il recupero e il varo delle imbarcazioni in riparazione o in costruzione. Il recupero del Galata rientra nel più ampio progetto di rivalutazione complessiva dell'area portuale antica, felicemente iniziato nel 1992. com'è noto, con la realizzazione dell'Acquario di Genova - opera di Reno Piano - e ancora in corso di completamento come ricorda, ad esempio, l'attesa realizzazione di "Ponte Parodi" Oa grande piazza sull'acqua progettata da Ben van Berkel), l'altra banchina del porto interessata dal progetto di recupero che completerà il magnifico waterfront. "Ho cercato di catturare la luce - dichiara l'architetto sivigliano - e di farla penetrare nell'edificio attraverso le grandi vetrate, ho cercato di innervare la luce nella colonna vertebrale del Galata in modo che la struttura venisse illuminata e quasi riscoperta.

 

La luce catturata orienta e qualifica gli spazi". L'idea di recuperare l'antica fabbrica attraverso un attento progetto di molteplici piani-luce, che a varia scala disegnano nuovi e antichi spazi, rappresenta sicuramente la parte migliore del progetto di Consuegra. Volumi conformati da cristallo e acciaio perimetrano antichi spazi e inventano interessanti ambienti contemporanei in un susseguirsi di pieni e vuoti, luci e ombre. Ad iniziare dal sottile e slanciato nuovo avancorpo trasparente che porta in avanti la nuova facciata dell'edificio, lasciando intravedere l'antica e inventando così un nuovo spazi visivo-funzionale, porta d'accesso e atrio del museo. È uno degli spazi più significativi della nuova proposta: svela al visitatore la facciata storica ottocentesca sormontata dal grande orologio che scandiva i tempi del lavoro alla Darsena; ospita servizi come l'accoglienza al pubblico, il book & gift shop, la caffetteria (ancora in fase di realizzazione come molti particolari dell'opera), la galleria della nautica sportiva, ecc. Da questo alto ambiente illuminato, dopo aver attraversato II muro della facciata storica, si accede agli affascinanti spazi espositivi del piano terra (in cui è stata ricavata anche una piccola sala conferenze da 100 posti), caratterizzati dalle originarie volte seicentesche, iniziando cosi un intrigante percorso verso la scoperta del mare. Il nuovo complesso museale (costato oltre 20 milioni di euro) occupa circa 10.000 mq, di cui 6000 espositivi dedicati a mostre permanenti e temporanee. Seguendo un percorso cronologico, ogni livello dell'edificio espone "un modo di andare per mare". Il viaggio inizia al piano terra, dall'età delle navi a remi. Questo livello espositivo si conclude con la sorpresa dello "Scalo della Galea": una struttura originaria dell'edificio (in cui è stata riportata a vista la muratura), che consentiva anche il varo delle imbarcazioni (si segnala la pavimentazione inclinata in pietra che costituiva lo scivolo), dove è stata allestita

 

La ricostruzione della spettacolare Galea Genovese del XVII secolo, lunga 40 m e alta a poppa 9m. Lo scenografico allestimento della galea (un'imbarcazione sia militare sia mercantile, con propulsione mista a vela e a remi), ricostruita sulla base di una lunga ricerca condotta dai Musei del Mare e della Navigazione di Genova, costituisce uno dei momenti più spettacolari del percorso espositivo. Attraverso un sistema di collegamenti verticali e terrazze panoramiche, il visitatore prosegue poi il sua viaggio al livello superiore del museo girando attorno alla galea, scoprendo da diversi punti di vista inediti particolari dell'imbarcazione e scorgendo altri inaspettati spazi. Come quello dei "Costoloni dell'Arsenale": un particolare ambiente dove ci si trova a passeggiare nel vano ricavato tra gli antichi pilastri di sostegno dell'edificio e. attraverso una grande vetrata, si può ammirare l'affascinante immagine dello storico quartiere di Prè (attualmente interessato da un progetto di rinnovamento e risanamento). Il primo e il secondo piano del museo sono dedicati alla "Vela" e all'età che va dai galeoni ai vascelli. Il terzo piano è dedicato al "Vapore", dai primi piroscafi all'ultima generazione di navi da crociera, e oggi ospita un'interessante esposizione temporanea dal titolo "Translatantici. Scenari e sogni di mare". Il variegato percorso espositivo, qui solo accennato, è sempre caratterizzato da continue scoperte di spazi, come il "Grande Scalone degli Schiavi": una struttura monumentale che consente di collegare la parte bassa e quella alta dell'edificio. Attraverso questo ambiente 'vuoto" (caratterizzato anche dagli storici gradini di pietra di promontorio) il visitatore sale nella parte superiore della fabbrica, disegnata da passerelle volanti, con i parapetti di cristallo (per accentuare l'idea di leggerezza e luminosità del progetto). Dopo la visita del terzo piano, attraverso un interessante percorso realizzato da piani inclinati, si arriva alla sommità dell'opera dove è custodito lo spazio più affascinante disegnato da Consuegra, EI Mirador. È una grande struttura scoperta pavimentata in legno a listelli, delimitata da alti cristalli da cui si può ammirare e contemplare le colline, la città, il porto, il mare e il cielo. Ricorda il ponte di una nave, dal quale sentire l'ambiente, percepire il paesaggio; ricorda anche i tanti terrazzi sopra i tetti delle case di Genova, da cui traguardare mete e sogni. Per Consuegra rappresenta un faro: "ho voluto dotare di un nuovo faro l'antica darsena. Il mio sogno è che questo faro diventi un nuovo simbolo della darsena, come prima lo era l'orologio. Anzi, vorrei che questo faro diventi un nuovo simbolo di Genova".

 
Maurizio Unali

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