James Joyce, architetto e urbanista
Tall Buildings
1 Settembre 2004
Il Progetto 23
1 Marzo 2005Dublino, conoscenza e descrizione dei luoghi
Nell'ottobre del 1904, cento anni fa, James Joyce abbandonò la città natale di Dublino per iniziare un volontario esilio che lo avrebbe portato a vivere, a fasi alterne, tra Trieste, Zurigo e Parigi. E in quello stesso anno, approssimativamente nell'arco delle ventiquattro ore del 16 giugno, si svolge l'Ulisse, massimo capolavoro della letteratura moderna. Quel giorno è ormai universalmente noto come il Bloomsday in omaggio a Leopold Bloom, uomo qualunque e protagonista del romanzo. Joyce scelse quella data in ricordo del primo appuntamento che il ventiduenne James ottenne da una bella cameriera di Galway. Nora Barnacle sarebbe stata per lui musa, amante, moglie e madre dei suoi due figli. James fuggi con lei dall'Irlanda e condivisero una vita spesso segnata dalla cattiva sorte. Le motivazioni della radicale scelta di Joyce sono enumerate in chiusura del suo Ritratto dell'artista da giovane: Non servirò ciò in cui non credo più, si chiami questo la casa, la patria o la Chiesa: e tenterò di esprimere me stesso in un qualche modo di vita o di arte quanto più potrò liberamente e integralmente, adoperando per difendermi le sole armi che mi concedo di usare: il silenzio, l'esilio e l'astuzia. A livello internazionale, molte sono state quest'anno le iniziative editoriali nate a seguito del centenario, per non contare i congressi e le manifestazioni culturali. A Trieste, dove Joyce visse per oltre dieci anni, e dove ogni anno l'Università organizza una seguitissima Trieste James Joyce Summer School, è stato inaugurato un Centro di studi joyciani presso la Biblioteca Civica. Ma la vera protagonista dei festeggiamenti è stata la città di Dublino che nel giubileo del Bloomsday si è auto-proclamata capitale dell'immaginario letterario contemporaneo. La rampante Dublino dei nostri giorni è ben diversa dalla città che Joyce lasciò nel 1904 per Vivere, errare, cadere, trionfare, ricreare la vita dalla vita! Quella che era una piccola metropoli provinciale dell'impero britannico si è oggi trasformata nel fenomeno socio-economico noto come la "Tigre Celtica". Dublino è oggi un importante centro della politica europea e grazie al suo strategico National Development Program l'Irlanda è tuttora il paese della UE che ha saputo gestire al meglio i fondi comunitari. I risultati sono evidenti, in primis la moltiplicazione dei posti di lavoro che ha trasformato un paese di emigrazione in un luogo di immigrazione. Dublino cresce: sono state appena inaugurate due nuove linee ferrotranviarie della DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) e relative stazioni. E impressionante il numero di cantieri aperti dai quali svettano centinaia di gru. La città é in piena espansione urbanistica ed intere aree della città sono interessate da una profonda trasformazione. Vecchi isolati semi-fatiscenti vengono sventrati per fare posto a nuove costruzioni destinate a soddisfare la sempre maggiore richiesta di vani per uso abitativo o per uffici. Mentre O'Connel Street si abbiglia nello stile degli Champs Elysees, la centralissima Grafton Street perde il lustro di un tempo e piccoli esercizi chiudono per essere sostituiti dai centri commerciali. Oggi Dublino è una delle città più giovani d'Europa ed è "il luogo" della letteratura contemporanea. Ciò non solo grazie a Joyce ed ai numerosi irlandesi coronati dal premio Nobel per la letteratura (II poeta W.B. Yeats, il drammaturgo Samuel Beckett, e lo scrittore G.B. Shaw) ma anche per la vivacità della produzione letteraria che ha fatto della narrativa irlandese un caso editoriale. Dublino è °il luogo" di questa cultura e la città é l'oggetto della rappresentazione poetica nelle opere di affermati autori quali Uam O'FIttherty, Flann O'Brien, Behan Brendan, Iris Murdoch, Jennifer Johnston, Colm Toibin, Roddy Doyle, Joseph O'Connor e Dermot Bolger. Ma è la Dublino d'inizio secolo, la città nella quale lo scrittore aveva identificato il centro della "paralisi" procurata dal colonialismo britannico, ad essere la protagonista dell'intera opera narrativa di James Joyce. La topografia di Dublino, le sue strade e i suoi monumenti, i quartieri affacciati sul mare, i numerosi corsi d'acqua che l'attraversano sotterranei ed in superficie è così presente in tante pagine della letteratura contemporanea da far pensare che sia anche la topografia di un "luogo della mente". Dall'ottobre 1904 fino alla sua morte a Zurigo nel 1941, tutto ciò che Joyce scrisse è dedicato a Dublino: dalla raccolta di racconti Gente di Dublino al romanzo autobiografico Ritratto dell'artista da giovane, all'odissea cittadina di Stephen Dedalus e di Leopold Bloom narrata nell'Ulisse, fino all'opera sperimentale Finnegans Wake, un delirio onirico attorno al Liffey (Anna Livia Plurabelle) il fiume che attraversa la città. La perfetta conoscenza del luogo e la minuziosa esattezza della descrizione che Joyce ne aveva fatto nel suo libro era tale da Spingere lo scrittore ad asserire che, qualora Dublino fosse andata distrutta, l'Ulisse ne avrebbe permesso una identica riedificazione. Un esempio può essere un passo all'inizio del sedicesimo capitolo (Eumeo - Il rifugio). È ormai mezzanotte e quaranta, Leopold Bloom e Stephen Dedalus stanno tornando verso casa dopo aver passato una serata nel bordello di Bella Cohen: Passarono dinanzi all'ingresso principale della stazione ferroviaria Great Northem, donde si parte per Rettasi e dove naturalmente tutto il traffico era sospeso data l'ora tarda, e oltrepassando la porta posteriore dell'obitorio (luogo poco attraente per non dire estremamente tetro, specie dl notte), giunsero da ultimo alla Dock Tavem e a tempo debito voltarono in Store Street, famosa per il suo posto di polizia sezione C. Tra questi luoghi e gli alti, presentemente oscuri, magazzini di Beresford Place, Stephen intraprese a pensare a lbsen, per una sua personale associazione di idee con Baird, il marmista dl Talbot Place, prima svolta a destra, mentre l'altro che gli fungeva da fidus Achates inalava con intima voluttà l'odore del forno cittadino di James Rourke, sito proprio vicino al luogo dove si trovavano, l'aroma davvero appetentissimo del nostro pane quotidiano, di tutti i beni di consumo il primo e più degli altri indispensabile. Joyce era convinto delle enormi potenzialità creative delle parole, che egli ossequiava come amanti. L'Ulisse è un pastiche, un melange di stili, di scritture e di generi da ogni epoca nota. L'ossessione di Joyce per I nomi gli fu per anni da ostacolo nella pubblicazione di Gente di Dublino poiché ai tipografi dell'editore Grant Richards appariva cosa poco corretta indicare in un racconto i veri nomi di negozi e attività industriali. Viceversa nei suoi monologhi interiori l'evocazione dei nomi di strade, vie, ponti. parchi, quartieri, cartelloni pubblicitari, percorsi di tram, rotte di traghetti, è strumentale alla ricostruzione poetica di un intero mondo. Come nell'ottavo capitolo dell'Ulisse (I Lestrigoni - Il Pranzo). Sono le ore 13.00, Leopold Bloom è in piedi dalle 8.00, dopo diverse commissioni in giro per la città ha partecipato anche a un funerale e ora, dopo essere andato al giornale dove collabora, è in cerca di un posto dove pranzare: Si fermò all'incrocio con Fleet Street. Colazione per sei pance da Rowe? Devo cercar quell'annuncio nella biblioteca nazionale. Per otto pence al Burton. Meglio. E sulla strada. Oltrepassò fa rivendita Westmoreland di Solfati. Té, t& tè. Mi sono dimenticato di abbordare Tom Keman. Se avesse potuto. Joyce avrebbe stilato una mappa dell'universo e forse Finnegans Wake non è che questo. D'altronde John Joyce, suo padre, ebbe a dire che se James fosse stato abbandonato nel mezzo del deserto del Sahara, non avrebbe esitato a sedersi ed iniziare a tracciarne la pianta geografica. Dopo il 1904, lo scrittore tornò brevemente a Dublino solo tre volte e dopo il 1912 non vi fece più ritorno. Nondimeno, si potrebbe dire che è Dublino l'opera letteraria di Joyce. La lontananza rende ancora più peculiare Io strano mimetismo riscontrabile tra la Dublino narrata da Joyce e la Dublino dell'epoca. Infatti mentre lo scrittore componeva i suoi testi, la città andava attraversando radicali trasformazioni, sia dal punto di vista sociale che da quello urbanistico. L'Ulisse, ambientato - come amai sappiamo -il 16 giugno del 1904 nella città tardo coloniale di Dublino, venne di fatto scritto tra il 1916 ed il 1921. Erano gli anni della sanguinosa lotta anticoloniale coronata infine con la conquista dell'indipendenza irlandese dal dominio britannico. Nei giorni dell'Easter Rising, la rivolta del Lunedi di Pasqua del 1916, il centro della città venne completamente distrutto. Foto dell'epoca mostrano in particolare le macerie dell'area attorno a Sackville Street (oggi O'Connel Street) ed al General Post Office che era stato il cuore ed il simbolo della rivolta. Quando il 2 febbraio del 1922 a Parigi usci la prima copia dell'Ulisse per I tipi della Shakespeare & Company di Sylvia Beach, la città descritta da Joyce esisteva in gran parte solo nella mente dell'esule, che ne aveva fatto un mito, un feticcio, un luogo della memoria, e che era riuscito a trasporla in uno dei più grandi romanzi del '900. NEL CUORE DELLA METROPOLI IBERNICA. Davanti alla colonna di Nelson i tram rallentavano, giravano gli scambi, voltavano i trolley, partivano per Blackrock, Kingstown e Dalkey, Clonskea, Rathgar e Tarantina, Palmerston Park e Upper Rathmines, Sandymount Green, Rathmines, Ringsend e la torre di Sandymount, Harold's Cross.
L'ispettore delle Società tranviarie riunite di Dublino li faceva partire ~dando rauco: "Rathgar e Terenurer - "Forza per Sandymount Green!". A destra e sinistra parallele sferraglianti scampanellanti una vettura a due piani e una a un piano partivano dal capolinea, svoltavano sulla linea di corsa, strisciavano parallele. "Partenza, Palmerston Park!". (Ulisse, incipit al settimo capitolo (Eolo - Il giornale». La Dublino che James Joyce si era lasciato alle spalle nel 1904 era una città piccola sia per estensione che per numero di abitanti, tanto che poteva essere facilmente attraversata a piedi (cosa che d'altronde fanno Leopold Bloom e Stephen Dedalus). Nel 1911 Dublino contava 300.802 abitanti e si estendeva su una superficie di 1511 ettari. Come sottolinea Joseph Brady in Dublin at the Beginning of the )0( Century gli estremi orientali ed occidentali della città potevano essere raggiunti in poco meno di un'ora di cammino. Una rete concentrica di strade e dl canali riunivano e collegavano le diverse entità urbane che nel tempo erano andate a formare la città. L'acqua aveva, ed ha tutt'ora, un ruolo Importante nella topografia di Dublino. La città è attraversata dal Grand Canal e dal Royal Canal e da numerosi canali sotterranei che vanno a confluire nel fiume Liffey che di li a breve va a sfociare nel Mare d'Irlanda. Un mondo acquatico sotterraneo ben descritto in Una stella di nome Henry, il romanzo di Roddy Doyle sugli eventi dell'Easter Rising. Un fascino particolare riveste il suo prospetto sul mare nell'area di Sandymount Beach e più a sud a Sandycove. Qui si trova la famosa Martello Tower che apre la narrazione dell'Ulisse. Sandycove è un luogo che ritorna in molti altri romanzi come quelli delle autrici anglo-irlandesi bis Murdoch in The red and the green, e Jennifer Johnston in 777e gingerbread woman. L'ampia insenatura a chiusa infine dall'isolotto di Dalkey, immortalato negli esilaranti romanzi di Flann O'Brian II term poliziotto e L'Archivio di Da!key. Al lato opposto, it gotta 6 chiuso dal promontorlo di Howth Head. Un mondo acquatico che non sfugge a Joyce: Sul pigro canale erboso aveva navigato verso la costa attraverso Mande sulfa sua zattera [irate da una lune oltre i canneti, sops la fanghiglia, le bottiglie ingozzate di melma, le carogne del cant. Athlone, Mullingar, Moyvalley. Patrol fare una gita a piedi per far visits a Milly lungo if canale. 0 andarci in bicicletta. Noleggiare un macinino vecchio, per sicurezza. Wren ne aveva uno Patin, glom con Pasta da donna pent. Vie di navigazione interne in sviluppo. James M'Cann con !'hobby di portarmi in traghetto. Trasporto pit) economico. A piccolo tappe. Case galleggianti. Campeggio. Anoka feretrl. Verso il cielo via acqua. (Ulisse, sesto capitolo (Ades - II Funerale)). Di fatto si put, ipotizzare una certa somiglianza tra le topografie di Trieste e di Dublino: entrambe citta portuali, protette in un profondo golfo con Me colline alle spalle, con canali e imponenti i palazzi. La similitudine dove essere state particolarmente evidente tra tl 1905 e it 1920, gli anni in cui Joyce visse a Trieste. John McCourt nel saggio James Joyce. Gil anni di Bloom ha egregiamente approfondito tl ruoto fondamentale avuto della citta giuliana, all'epoca sotto il dominio austriaco, nella creazione delle opere di Joyce. E torso Trieste, con quel suo riecheggiare Dublin, facifito all'esule la compilazione della mappa ideate della sua citta. Almidano Artifoni oltrepassO Holies Street e cantiere Sewell. Diego a lui Cashel Boyle O'Connor Fitzmaurice Tisdall Farrel, con bastonombrellospolverfno ciondoloni, scans6 II lampione davanti alla case di Mr Law Smith e, attraversando, costeggio Merrion Square. A distanza, diotro di lui, un giovanotto cieco si faceva strada battendo col bastoncino lungo it mum di College Park. Cashel Boyle O'Connor Fitzmaurice Tisdall Farrel cammind fino allaltezza dells gale vetrine di Mr Lewis Werner, poi volto e misuro di nuovo a laugh! pass! Merrion Square, con bastonombrellospolverino ciondoloni. (Ulisse, decimo capitolo (Le Simplegadi - Le Shade)). Della lettura dell'Ulisse si evince che nel 1904 ('area commerciale del centro di Dublin (in particolare Grafton Street ed Henry Street) contava numerosi ed eleganti negozi che offrivano merce di quality, nonche grand magazzini come Clery & C. ed un gran numero di pub, mescite a caffe. Ancora oggi, in occasions del Bloomsday 6 possibile ripercorrere gran parte del percorso joyciano attraverso le strade, i negozi ed i bar menzionati nell'Ulisse, come it pub di Davy Byrne in Duke Street (desaitto nel nono capitolo (Scilla e Caridd) o it bar dell'Ormond Hotel dove Leopold Bloom incontra le "Sirens" owero le due batiste che danno it nome all'undicesimo capitolo del romanzo. 0 encore it pub di Barney Kiernan, in Little Britain Street dove net dodicesimo capitolo iI nostro eroe Btoom/Odisseo dovra scontrarsi con H "Ciclope", owero un fanatico nazionalista irlandese. II centro di Dublino conta peraltro importanti edifici pubbtici di impianto neoclassico come la Banca d'Inanda. it Grand Postal Office, la Custom House, it Parlamento ed I pia antichi manufatti cittadini: it Trinity College, ed it Castello. Molte erano le costruzIoni the si distinguevano per l'eclettismo delle loro strutture architettoniche, come l'Imperiat Hotel o it grande magazzino Brown & Thomas con le sue belle strutture in vetro e ferro, e le ample superfici espositive. II Liffey, ieri come oggi, divideva la citta tra i meno abbienti the occupavano l'area a nord del flume, e la classe pia agiata che viveva nelle belle case georgiane oltre la rive sud. L'immagine dominante della Dublino a inizio '900 e pet di poverta e declino. Volta in Cumberland Street el, avanzando di qualche passo, si tenni al mum della stazione sotto vento. Nessuno. La segheria Meade. Tray! accatastate. Rovine e caseggiati. (Ulisse, quinto capitolo (I Lotofagi - II Bagno)). L'esodo della classe pia abbiente dall'area metropolitana di Dubtino a favor° dei sobborghi era gia iniziato nei primi anni del '900. II centro progressivamente abbandonato veniva occupato da famiglie the anivavano della carnpagne impoverite della Grande Carestia abbattutasi sull'isola a meta '800. II degrado della cilia era giustificato anche dalle esigue entrate della municipality insufficienti alla manutenzione del suo territono. Come sottolinea to storico della letteratura Terry Eagleton, ffirlanda (fatty eccezione per le contee dell'Ulster) non ha mai conosciuto gli effetti della rivoluzione industrials, che gib a meta '800 aveva cambiato radicalmertte l'immagine della campagne e delle citta inglesi. Oggi Si put) dire che l'Irlanda sia passata da una society semi-rurale ad una society post-industriale senza aver sperimentato alcuna delle classiche fasi intermedie. Nei 1904 la popolazione attiva di Dublino era divisa tra un 12,3% di professionisti (compresi gli amministrativi militari e i religiosi), un 10,8% di commercianti, un 55,1% di piccoli industriali manffatturieri, un 20,4% di personale a servizio ed un 1,4% agricoltori. Gran parte del sud abitanti aveva lavori occasionali e viveva ben al di sotto della soglia della poverta. Poverty testimoniata dalle disastrose condizioni dell'edilizia popolare. Una realta che si protrasse fino alla meta del '900 e che culmine negli anni '60 con l'abbandono di inters aree del centro cittadino. Negli anni '70 vennero abbattuti i caseggiati fatiscenti e oontemporaneamente Olin!) rominosa costruzione delle unite d'abitazione/ghetto alla periferia nord•est della care. Negli anni '80 una nuova politica urbanistica promosse ii restauro e la ricostruzione/recupero di vetch' quarried che non erano stati ancora rasi al suolo. Temple Bar nee uno degli esempi pit) noti, oggi divenuto centro pulsante della vita cutturale, artistica e musicale di Dublin. E un'area che si attaccia sul lungofiume, ai margin' dl Monto, in passato uno dei quarried a luci rosse di Dublin. Possiamo immaginare Is sue animazione nella surrealistica ricostruzione del bordello di Bella Cohen al n. 82 di Tyrone Street, a nord del Liffey net none di Mountjoy the Joyce (accanito frequentatore di case chiuse) fornisce nel quindicesimo capitolo dell'U/isse denominato non a caso "Circe". Nel mare magnum dell'Ulisse non manta una ritlessione sulla case ideate che viene descritta con la usuale dovizia di particolari nel diciassettesimo capitolo (hair - La case)), di cui diamo un breve saggio. Dopo una lunge introduzione in stile perizia Leopold Bloom dichiara di desiderare: una casa d'abitazione con tutto impagliato a bungalow, a due plant, esposta a meridione, con sopra banderuola e parafulmine, collegato alla terra, con portico ricoperto di plane parassitane (edera o vita amen'cana) porta d'ingresso verde olive, con rifinitura a canozzeria e often? !midi, facciata in stucco con modanature dorate alts gronde e fronton e s/ta, se possibile, su un o'ofce declivio.„ E co& via di seguito per attic quattro pagine. James, prima di partire per il continente, visse per ventidue anni con Is sua numerosa famiglia a Dublin. Le precarie condizioni economiche costrinsero i Joyce a cambiare casa per ben 15 volte. Una vocazione al trasloco coatto the James manterra sempre. A Trieste cambia nova indrizzi In died anni e nell'arco della sua vita visse in oltre 60 diversi alloggi. I continui spostamenti da una parte alraltra di Dublino permisero al giovane James di conoscere a fondo ogni quartiere della citta e di memorizzarne ogni dettaglio, ogni nome dei vicini, tutte Is insegne dei negozi, i nomi dei vicoli e della strade e co& via. La zia Josephine usava spedire a James esule 'naafi di giornale, stradari, infomiazioni sull'esistenza o mono di vecchl esercizi commerciali e nel 1906, durante un breve periodo in cui Joyce visse a Roma, gli invid su sua richiesta una pianta di Dublino. Uno strumento per verificare quella smappa schematica della citta" che James adolescents aveva iniziato a stilare fin da quando si era trasferito con la famiglia al n. 14 di Fitzgibbon Street, non Ionian da Mountjoy Square. Motto di quells strade con i loro abitanti le ritroviamo encore oggi nei racconti di Gente di Dublino, In Ritratto dell'artista de giovane e. naturalmente, nell'Ulisse. In quest'ultimo romanzo rutilizzo del monologo intedore, o "fiusso di coscienza", permise a Joyce di ottenere quello che si put, definire un effetto mimetico tra it narrato e l'oggetto della narrazione, in questo caso Dublin. James Joyce non amava la carnpagna, i paesaggi, o le rovine delrantichita, tutto do non lo interessava. Joyce era un animate metropolitan per eccellenza, aveva vitals bisogno degli infiniti stimoli che solo la citta poteva dargli. Si lasciava awiluppare della nets dei percorsi urbani, dai rumori della strade, dagli odon e dal COI/Xi dei negozi, dal tipi di mezzi di trasporto, dal cicaleccio indaffarato degli awentori dei bar, dagli sguardi dells persone dell'altro sesso, dalle chiacchiere del perditempo. La sua scrittura a in prima luogo it frutto della registrazione delle osservazioni dell'occhio mobile del pedone. James Joyce sombre quasi il (laneur teotizzato da Walter Bejamin e da Franz Hessel, ma in tondo non riesce mai ad avere verso la sua ate II distacco del veto Honour. Si avvicind alla mescita di Larry O'Rourke. Dall'infernata della cantina veniva fuori a fiotti if mole fortore della bine. Darla porta aperta il bar sprizzava effluvi di zenzero, polvere di re, briciole di blscotti. Buon locale, comunque: proprio dove finlsce ii tredfico della citta. (Ulisse, quarto capitolo (Calipso - La colazione)). L'Uftsse potrebbe anche essens letto come il catalogo di un feticista, di un ossessivo collezionista di nomi di monumenti, strade, negozi, local pubblici, cimiteri, parchi, biblioteche, ospedali, borclelli, spiagge, uffici... come se - per divenire un "luogo" - to spazio debba essere prima trastdmato in feticcio. E se dunque it fiusso di coscienza to strumento stilistico che permette a Joyce di respire i meccanismi della produzione e della trasmissione del pensiero, allora la pianta, la "malaria cognitive" della citta impressa nella memoria di Leopold Bloom, non 6 solo un mezzo per ricreare H "senso del tumid° ma 6 soprattutto la piles geniale rappresentazione grafts del processo di formazione della memoria.
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