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Jil Sanders a Francoforte

Tre editori per un progetto culturale 1978-2010
25 Giugno 2018
Il Progetto 44
4 Giugno 2020
«My aesthetic ideas develop out of what I have appreciated and learned in my life and what I sense of the zeitgeist.».
Jil Sanders

Da questa frase prende origine la prima mostra museale incentrata sulla figura di Jil Sanders, stilista e designer poliedrica che è riuscita a conciliare arte, moda e architettura. Un’esposizione sviluppata su 3000 metri quadrati presso il Museo di Arte Contemporanea di Francoforte, disegnato da Richard Meier negli anni ottanta, e a cui Matthias Wagner K, curatore, ha lavorato per ben 18 mesi: numerose e differenti le installazioni che hanno come scopo quello di raccontare il variegato mondo della designer, dalla sua idea di moda alle campagne pubblicitarie, dalla passione per l’arte e l’architettura alla vita di tutti i giorni. Heidemarie Jiline Sander nasce nel 1943 a Wesselburen, in Germania, e dopo aver studiato ingegneria tessile alla Krefeld Textile School of Engineering, intraprende la carriera di giornalista e fotografa per la rivista statunitense McCalls: ciò che descrive e fotografa non corrisponde alla sua personale idea di moda, e a cavallo degli anni settanta inizia quindi le sue prime esperienze come stilista freelance per mettere in gioco le sue intuizioni sull’uso dei materiali, sulla figura femminile e sulle richieste estetiche di una società in rapido mutamento. In contrasto con la cultura estetica parigina, Jil Sanders si riferisce alla visione tedesca di modernità. Incoraggia il lavoro di squadra, la serialità e la prototipizzazione delle creazioni, in un richiamo dichiarato all’esperienza della Bauhaus.
Ma non solo.


Nella sua opera ritroviamo richiami anche al Classicismo Tedesco, al Purismo e alla riduzione grafica tipica del Neue Sachlichkeit, il Nuovo Oggettivismo degli anni venti. Jil Sanders invita le donne a disfarsi del decorativismo, l’opulenza va ricercata nel taglio e nell’abilità artigianale del prodotto sartoriale. L’impostazione ottenuta dagli studi nella giovinezza la porta a effettuare ricerche continue in campo tessile, con attenzione particolare al taglio e alla tessitura, senza dimenticare la passione per materiali e tecniche provenienti dall’Europa, in particolare grazie ai produttori Italiani, o da molto più lontano, i tessuti high tech dal Giappone.

“In contrasto con la cultura estetica parigina, Jil Sanders si riferisce alla visione tedesca di modernità.”


La creazione di un marchio del lusso di estremo successo l’ha portata a interfacciarsi, anche per passione, a specifici artisti ed architetti, importantissima è la sua partecipazione con il francese Frédéric Sanchez, che dal 1992 compone l’accompagnamento musicale delle sfilate Sanders, o con l’architetto statunitense Micheal Gabellini, che nel 1993 disegna e realizza il primo flagship store del marchio: un’ampia area espositiva di oltre 1000 metri quadri in Avenue Montaigne 50, a Parigi, seguito da quelli di New York, Londra, Tokyo e oltre un centinaio boutiques e showroom accomunati da geometrie pure e lineari, piani traslucidi e luminosi, superfici galleggianti e forme sospese.

Una mostra che potrebbe essere difficilmente più sfaccettata e che mira a svelare l’ingegnosità e la forza creativa di una donna che ha fatto della nobilitazione dell’individuo la propria missione di vita.

Alessandro Fuchs


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