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Rogelio Salmona

Il Progetto 21
1 Agosto 2004
Odile Decq & Benoit Cornette
1 Agosto 2004
 

Tra il dire e il fare in architettura

 

Bogotà DC, Colombia. Tempo fa l'ho sentita chiamare la 'Manhattan delle Ande', grazie alla manciata di grattacieli che. stagliati sulla Cordillera, certo poco hanno a che fare con i loro affini newyorkesi. Piuttosto, risulta interessante notare, nel caratteristico skyline che si snoda attraverso il gioco dei profili paralleli dei Cerros e degli edifici, alcuni tra questi ultimi in mattoni, che emergono dall'imperante International style. Alcune tra queste torri, hanno fatto 'scuola': altre, sono seguite a ruota. Conjunto residencial Torres del Parque': vale a dire quelle che hanno 'fatto scuola': iniziamo da qui il percorso progettuale di Salmone; attraverso quest'opera dalle incisive valenze urbane. Situate nel centro della città accanto alla storica Plaza de Toros, 30 anni fa, all'epoca della loro costruzione, tali edifici per appartamenti hanno sollevato molto scalpore. Erano semplicemente, 'azzardate': per il materiale e le forme, oltre che per la stessa idea di 'vivere il centro' quando, in una visione questa sì motto yankee, l'idea era abbandonarlo al suo (apparente) inarrestabile degrado. Oggi, sono addirittura Monumento Nazionale. Le ho osservate molto, alle differenti ore e dalle varie angolature. Paradossalmente, la visione più suggestiva e completa, mi è sembrata quella dallo studio dello stesso Salmone, al ventesimo piano dell'edificio di fronte. Appaiono imponenti e leggere allo stesso tempo. Dialogano, con le loro differenti altezze e angolature, con i rilievi naturali retrostanti. I caratteristici balconi, 'onde' volumetriche che si rimandano continuamente sulla parete organizzata in angolature progressive, sembrano mossi da una forza che chissà non sia quell'onnipresente fresca e leggera brezza montanara. Volumi, vetri mattoni e angoli che giocano con la tersa e affascinante luce del tramonto, tipica dei 2650 metri dell'altopiano bogotano. Se proprio vogliamo cercare parentele, a tutt'altre quote, latitudini e tempi, Las Torres. per le forme e per la forza da cui sembrano mosse, ricordano il progetto di grattacielo per Livorno di Michelucci. Forma e forze, che hanno avuto la capacità di ribaltare la stessa idea di Torte, almeno a queste latitudini. Chissà, hanno contribuito a dissolvere l'associazione ai grattacieli nordamericani; dando la chance ai (successivi) parallelepipedi della capitale colombiana di una caratterizzazione; legandosi attraverso materiali (mattone e ampie vetrate del tipico linguaggio bogotano), forme e funzioni. al genius loti. Un percorso progettuale, quello di Salmone che, partendo dall'architettura, incide profondi segni nel tessuto urbano, fino a far parlare della 'Bogotà di Salmone'. Lui rigetta decisamente tale affermazione, aggrappato ad una modestia professionale che gli impone una elegante distanza dalla sua Opera. Nonostante ciò, la città è costellata di suoi interventi che sicuramente l'hanno orientata, arricchita, attraverso edifici pubblici, quartieri popolari, assi urbani. Interessante in tal senso. la sua versione sullo sviluppo del fenomeno urbano bogotano e, per certi versi, Latino americano: la colonizzazione ha compiuto un formidabile atto d'urbanizzazione, di un intero continente. Fatto unico nella storia, gli spagnoli fondarono in cinquant'anni più di 500 città, attraverso un unico schema regolare a maglie geometriche. E per 400 anni, tale struttura ha conservato la sua unita'. Il '900, con il Movimento Moderno, sembra aver rotto quest'equilibrio. La crescita vertiginosa e incontrollata della popolazione in questi ultimi 40 anni, specie nelle grandi città, ha fatto il resto. 'Il problema è che, anziché fissare lo sguardo sulla città latinoamericana (la sua storia, geografia, cultura, peculiarità), si è guardato fuori, ad altre esperienze, per la ricerca di soluzioni'. Mi pare di capire dalle sue parole, che soprattutto sono mancati quegli elementi che avrebbero potuto permettere una proficua relazione reciproca con i riferimenti stranieri. anziché la ciec (e a volte entusiastica) applicazione di modelli formali e strutturali rilevatisi estranei alle caratteristiche locali. Senza dubbio, e soprattutto In una figura poliedrica ed estremamente ricca come quella di Salmone. il tema del dialogo tra diverse tendenze e apporti è di notevole rilevanza. Formatosi nello studio dl Le Corbusier; profondo conoscitore (e ammiratore) dei segni e delle restituzioni fisiche delle Culture rinascimentali, francese, islamiche, sembra trovare la sua forza ispiratrice in un attento esercizio d'ascolto del luogo, dei suoi segni, materiali, forme. E proprio in Europa paradossalmente, conosce meglio la civiltà Precolombiana; riscoprendo le radici del suo essere, profondamente, figlio dell'America Latina. Se da un lato l'esperienza decennale nel Vecchio Continente lo fornisce di quelle attrezzature concettuali che gli permettono di capire fino all'anima le peculiarità del suo Paese e più in generale, del Nuovo Continente, fino all'anima rimane allo stesso tempo. profondo conoscitore della realtà europea. Un'influenza, se cosi la possiamo chiamare, molto proficua, che lungi dall'importare modelli e retaggi, lo pone come figura-ponte tra le due rive dell'Atlantico. Non a caso, la consegna del Premio Alvar Aalto lo scorso anno: 'Sento una profonda somiglianza con Aalto; veniamo da due paesi periferici nei rispettivi continenti, e abbiamo caratteristiche simili nella visione dell'architettura'.

 

E alla stessa stregua di Aalto, nella sua capacità di coniugare esigenze dell'architettura contemporanea ad una sottile e intelligente ricerca e utilizzo di semantiche della propria terra, reduce dall'esperienza europea, s'immerge in un intenso lavoro progettuale che, intrecciando materiali ed elementi naturali. forme e citazioni, restituiscono sul territorio soluzioni progettuali dense di evocazioni locali. che tra l'altro, lo allontanano decisamente da linguaggio formale appreso nel taller di Le Corbusier. Il quale, anni dopo, a Bogotà per il piano della città, sembra non riconoscerlo: 'Questo non é Le Corbusier.'; sentenzia davanti ai progetti che Salmone, quasi timidamente, gli espone. La cosa si risolve con una strizzata d'occhio di profonda intesa tra i due, a sancire un rapporto che trova le sue regole in contenuti che vanno ben oltre una maniera con la quale ossequiare il Maestro. Semplicemente, Salmone era già immerso in altre regole e contenuti differenti dell'architettura, testimonianza di una costante e sincera ricerca di restituzione di una sensibilità che affonda le sue radici nella più tipica architettura Andina. Andiamo al Santo S. Barbara, anch'esso a due passi dal cuore della Candelaria, il quartiere storico della capitale colombiana. Il titolo per una sua descrizione potrebbe essere: 'variazioni attorno al tema della maglia geometrica'. Se da un lato appare evidente, infatti, la sua fedeltà all'impianto generatore tipico della città coloniale, dall'altro, l'insieme degli edifici In pianta e in alzato, è tutto un gioco di movimenti, scorci, dettagli che ne autoarricchiscono I immagine e la conformazione; la sua stessa essenza, regalando generosamente una dignità architettonica a un complesso residenziale di carattere popolare. O. passeggiamo per la Avenida Jimenez de Quesada: tortuoso asse costruito sul letto del piccolo fiume che portava fuori della città, verso la grande valle del Rio Magdalena sottostante, e quindi, al mare. Storico ingresso, di accesso e di uscita dalla città dunque; oggi, cuore pulsante del Centro. Una sorta di Regent Street (...o Broadway). per la sua linea sinuosa che si avvinghia al tessuto geometrico di origine coloniale. Salmone vi interviene, per un risanamento che implica la pedonalizzazione e il passaggio veicolare ai soli mezzi di trasporto pubblico. Imbriglia il fiumiciattolo in una serie di vasche successive e degradanti, a loro volta incastonate sul selciato (immancabilmente mattonato) dalle differenti tessiture e dai puri disegni geometrici.

 

L'asse si converte immediatamente, in un luogo di alto significato; un bio urbano che accoglie e restituisce quegli episodi notevoli che insistono ai suoi lati, carrellata storica e vetrina prestigiosa dell'architettura colombiana: dalle antiche chiese coloniali al primo grattacielo, passando per le neoclassiche facciate di Enti e ministeri, e le prestigiose sedi dell'Hotel Continente], e del quotidiano 'El Pompo', testimonianze del ricco contributo italiano alla costruzione della città. L'acqua, il mattone. Le linee, il quadrato, il cerchio e le loro derivazioni. I colori, del materiale e della natura. La luce, l'ombra. Le ritroviamo in ogni progetto di Salmone, e ne costituiscono la sua firma più autentica. Lungi dall'essere esercizio di forma e stile, sono nella loro essenza, quanto di più genuino egli ha inteso tipico dell'architettura locale. Difficile dargli torto. Ne è eloquente esempio la sua recente Biblioteca Virgilio Barco. Entrando tra i solenni cortili, nell'aula di lettura costruita dai giochi di luci con soppalchi e le curve della forma semicilindrica; scavalcando le sottili linee d'acqua che incrociano la pianta dell'edificio; tra spazi alternanti dei vuoti/pieni, alle differenti quote; nelle sommità, che ripropongono catini ancestrali della cultura Andina, certo sono sicuro di non essere né a Roma e tanto meno a New York. Sicuramente neanche a Buenos Aires, tanto per essere precisi sull'identità che tali luoghi architettonici sono capaci di sprigionare. Architettura come Spazio; e come Tempo, inteso come 'Concatenarsi del passato, presente, Muro. Spetta all'architetto, che si avvicina alla città, il compito di dare/mantenere la continuità'. Probabilmente, retaggi dello studio del Rinascimento italiano, da cui si dice attratto, per la profonda relazione che si sviluppa tra edificio e paesaggio, frutto del fluire della Storia, e che rende l'ambiente un 'gran conjunto', 'insieme - potremmo tradurre - poderoso'. dell'attività umana, '...Un elemento (l'ambiente costruito dall'uomo) unico, dove Spazio, Tempo, Storia, intrecciate nell'atto creativo umano, si compongono armoniosamente in quel paesaggio dove l'uomo può lavorare, risiedere, vivere'. Già, perché per Salmone l'uomo ha tutto il diritto ad uno spazio decoroso ove può essere felice e dove può vivere: cioè: 'sfruttare il suo Tempo, in maniera degna'. Tali affermazioni ci introducono direttamente al terna dell'abitazione. Nel lungo repertorio di residenze progettate da Salmone. troviamo ancora, gli stessi riferimenti stilistici, adattati in tal caso agli elementi che in quel luogo inistono: si tratti della solarità caraibica abbagliante, incorniciata nella ricchezza e abbondanza di colori e verde della storica e vivace Cartagena de Indias, o della severa natura della Sabana bogotana. Ancora una volta, c'è da scoprire qualcosa di più intimo, nascosto, da tali ambienti. Un qualcosa che ha a che fare con quel gusto di creare ambienti degni; quel gusto, che gli altri stiano bene; che è alle radici del suo fare architettura. Che confermano, soprattutto, quella coerenza tra intenti e realizzazioni che fanno, d( Rogelio Salmone, una delle grandi figure dell'architettura contemporanea.

 
Mario Tancredi

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